From Milk to Cheese

Cheese is the result of a simple transformation:milk, time, and care.

Behind every cheese lies an animal, a landscape, a technique, and a rhythm shaped by the seasons. This guide explores how milk becomes cheese—and why each cheese develops its own character.

THE ESSENTIAL: MILK

Milk is the foundation of all cheese.

Whether it comes from cows, goats, sheep, or buffalo, milk is a living raw material composed mainly of water, fat, proteins, minerals, vitamins, and naturally occurring microorganisms.

Each species—and even each breed—produces milk with different characteristics that directly influence the texture, flavour, and ageing potential of the final cheese.

Did You Know?

Milk contains around87% water.

As a general guide, it takes approximately10 litres of milk to produce 1 kilogram of cheese, although this varies greatly depending on the type of milk and the style of cheese.

During cheesemaking, much of the water is removed as whey. What remains is concentrated fat, protein, minerals, and other milk solids.

As cheese ages, moisture continues to evaporate. This natural weight loss concentrates flavour but also reduces yield, which is one reason long-aged cheeses are generally more expensive.

Why Is Milk White?

Milk appears white because fat globules and proteins scatter light.

Milk with a higher fat content often appears creamier or more opaque, while lower-fat milk can sometimes appear slightly bluish.

FROM FARM TO MILK

Great cheese begins with great milk.

On small-scale farms, animals are carefully fed, monitored, and managed according to the seasons.

Their diet can change throughout the year:

• fresh pasture in spring and summer
• hay and stored forage during colder months
• local herbs and vegetation depending on the region

These changes can influence the aroma, fat content, protein balance, and overall character of the milk.

Strict hygiene during milking is essential. Once collected, the milk is cooled, tested, and handled carefully to preserve its quality before cheesemaking begins.

MILK SOURCES & BREEDS

Different animals produce milk with very different structures and flavour profiles.

Cow’s Milk Breeds

Holstein, Montbéliarde, Abondance, Tarentaise, Simmental, Brown Swiss, Normande, Jersey, Ayrshire, Fleckvieh, Vosgienne.

Goat Breeds

Saanen, Alpine, Toggenburg, Poitevine, Murciano-Granadina, Anglo-Nubian, Rove, Verzasca.

Sheep Breeds

Lacaune, Manech Tête Rousse, Manech Tête Noire, Basco-Béarnaise, Sarda, Awassi, Churra, Manchega.

Other Milk Sources

• Buffalo – very rich milk, high in fat and protein, ideal for many stretched-curd cheeses
• Mixed milk – combinations of cow, goat, or sheep milk can create additional balance and complexity

PASTEURISED, UNPASTEURISED & RAW MILK

One of the most important things to understand in cheesemaking iswhen heat is applied.

The termspasteurised,unpasteurised, andraw milk are often used together, but they do not always describe exactly the same thing.

RAW MILK

In European legislation, raw milk is defined as milk that hasnot been heated above 40°C or undergone another treatment having an equivalent effect.

This temperature relates to themilk itself before cheesemaking.

The 40°C reference is close to the natural body temperature of the animal and helps distinguish raw milk from milk that has undergone a deliberate heat treatment.

Raw milk retains more of its naturally occurring microbial flora and enzymes, which can contribute to the individuality and complexity of a cheese.

Raw milk cheesemaking therefore requires:

• excellent milk quality
• very good animal health
• strict hygiene
• careful control throughout production

The Important Point

The40°C rule applies to the milk before coagulation.

It doesnot mean that the temperature can never rise above 40°C later during cheesemaking.

UNPASTEURISED MILK

Unpasteurised simply means that the milk hasnot been pasteurised.

Many unpasteurised cheeses are also raw milk cheeses.

However, the term is useful because it focuses specifically on whether pasteurisation has taken place.

PASTEURISED MILK

Pasteurisation deliberately heats milk before cheesemaking to reduce harmful microorganisms and create greater consistency.

A common method is approximately:

• 72°C
• for around15 seconds

The process is broadly:

Milk → pasteurisation → rennet/cultures → coagulation → curd → cheese

Pasteurisation improves microbiological safety and consistency, but it also reduces some of the milk's original microbial diversity.

THERMISED MILK

Thermisation is a gentler heat treatment than pasteurisation.

Typical temperatures are around:

• 57–68°C
• for a short period of time

The aim is to reduce undesirable microorganisms while preserving more of the milk's original enzymes and microbial character than full pasteurisation.

The exact time and temperature depend on the process used.

Thermisation can therefore be considered a middle ground between raw milk and pasteurised milk.

MICROFILTERED MILK

Microfiltration uses very fine membranes to physically remove microorganisms from milk.

Unlike pasteurisation, the main treatment is mechanical rather than based entirely on heat.

Different microfiltration systems can be used, and some processes also involve separate treatment of the cream before the milk is recombined.

For this reason, microfiltered milk should not automatically be described as raw milk simply because the main filtration stage occurs at a low temperature.

UHT / STERILISED MILK

UHT milk is heated to approximately:

• 135–150°C
• for only a few seconds

This produces shelf-stable milk but significantly alters the milk proteins and flavour.

For that reason, UHT milk is generally unsuitable for most traditional cheesemaking.

RAW MILK DOES NOT MEAN UNCOOKED CURD

This is one of the most common sources of confusion.

Once the milk has coagulated and the curd has formed, the cheesemaker may heat thecurd to a much higher temperature.

For example:

Raw milk
↓
Rennet and cultures added
↓
Coagulation
↓
Curd formed
↓
Curd heated to 50–56°C
↓
Cheese

The cheese can still be made fromraw milk, because the milk itself was not pasteurised before coagulation.

Heating the curd later does not retrospectively pasteurise the original milk.

COMTÉ: A PERFECT EXAMPLE

Comté is a very good example of the difference betweenraw milk andcooked curd.

Under its European protected production rules, Comté is made fromraw cow's milk.

However, Comté is also acooked pressed cheese.

During production, the curd is heated to approximately53–56°C.

So all of these statements can be correct:

• Comté is araw milk cheese
• the milk isunpasteurised
• the curd iscooked
• the curd reaches more than 50°C
• the milk itself wasnot pasteurised before coagulation

Simple Schema

RAW MILK
Milk not heated above the raw-milk threshold
↓
RENNET + CULTURES
↓
COAGULATION
↓
CURD FORMED
↓
CURD COOKED TO APPROX. 53–56°C
↓
COMTÉ

Raw milk cheese ✓
Unpasteurised milk ✓
Cooked curd ✓
Pasteurised milk ✗

The key iswhen the heat is applied.

EUROPEAN DEFINITION VS AUSTRALIAN IMPORT CLASSIFICATION

Traditional cheesemaking terminology and regulatory import terminology are not always identical.

In Europe, a cheese such as Comté can clearly be described asmade from raw milk, even though the curd is later cooked above 50°C.

For Australian import purposes, authorities may also consider thecomplete production process and its food-safety effect.

This means that a cheese that is traditionally described as a raw milk cheese may, depending on the exact production conditions, be assessed under a recognisedhigh-temperature curd-cook pathway for import purposes.

This doesnot mean that the milk was pasteurised.

It simply means that Australian authorities may take into account the heat applied later during cheesemaking when deciding which regulatory pathway applies.

The Simple Difference

Pasteurised cheese

Milk
↓
Heat treatment
↓
Coagulation
↓
Curd
↓
Cheese

Raw milk cheese

Raw milk
↓
Coagulation
↓
Curd
↓
Cheese

Raw milk cooked-curd cheese

Raw milk
↓
Coagulation
↓
Curd
↓
Curd heated to 50–56°C
↓
Cheese

So:

Heating the milk before coagulation can change its raw-milk status.

Heating the curd after coagulation does not automatically make the cheese pasteurised.

EUROPEAN GEOGRAPHICAL PROTECTIONS

Many European cheeses are protected by official geographical designations that preserve their origin, production methods, and cultural heritage.

These include:

• PDO / AOP – Protected Designation of Origin / Appellation d’Origine Protégée
• PGI / IGP – Protected Geographical Indication / Indication Géographique Protégée
• AOC – Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a traditional French designation that often precedes European AOP recognition
• DOP – Denominazione di Origine Protetta, the Italian-language equivalent of PDO

Protected specifications may define:

• the geographical production area
• authorised animal breeds
• animal feed
• milk treatment
• production techniques
• minimum ageing
• size and shape of the cheese

For example, the production specification for Comté includes the requirement to useraw cow's milk.

These protections help preserve local agricultural traditions and prevent the names of protected cheeses from being used for products made outside their specifications.

United Kingdom

Following Brexit, the United Kingdom operates its own geographical indication schemes, including:

• PDO
• PGI
• TSG – Traditional Speciality Guaranteed

FROM MILK TO CHEESE

Although every cheese is different, the basic transformation follows a similar sequence.

1. Milking

Milk is collected from the animal and handled carefully to preserve its quality.

2. Collection & Testing

Milk may be tested for composition, hygiene, and quality before cheesemaking.

3. Cultures

Selected cultures may be added to help acidification and guide flavour development.

In raw milk cheesemaking, the natural microbial population of the milk can also play an important role.

4. Coagulation

Rennet, acidification, or a combination of both causes the milk proteins to form a gel.

5. Cutting

The curd is cut into smaller pieces.

Smaller curd grains generally release more whey and help produce a firmer cheese.

6. Heating or Cooking

Some cheese styles require the curd to be gently warmed or cooked.

Others remain at relatively low temperatures.

7. Moulding

The curds are transferred into moulds, giving the cheese its final shape.

8. Draining & Pressing

Whey continues to leave the curd naturally or with pressure.

9. Salting

Cheeses may be dry-salted, salted in the curd, or placed in brine.

Salt contributes to flavour, preservation, rind development, and moisture control.

10. Ripening

The cheese is matured under controlled temperature and humidity.

During this period, microorganisms, enzymes, and time transform the texture, rind, and flavour.

WHY DOES CHEESE COST MORE?

Hand-produced cheeses are generally made in smaller quantities and require a high level of skill and attention.

Cost begins with the milk itself.

Animals need:

• land
• food
• veterinary care
• labour
• milking equipment
• year-round attention

Then comes cheesemaking.

Many stages involve significant manual work, careful temperature control, cleaning, moulding, turning, salting, washing, and monitoring.

Ageing adds another cost.

A cheese ageing for 12, 24, or 36 months:

• occupies cellar space
• requires regular care
• ties up the producer's money
• continues to lose weight through evaporation

In a sense, the cheese ispaying rent while it stays in the cellar.

The longer it ages, the less cheese remains to sell—but the more concentrated and complex it can become.

Buying cheese means tastingmilk, labour, time, patience, and expertise.

FAMILIES OF CHEESE & WINE PAIRINGS

Fresh Cheeses

Unripened, high in moisture, fresh, clean, and milky.

Examples: Fromage Blanc, Ricotta, fresh curd

Pair with: light aromatic whites or sparkling wines.

Lactic Cheeses

Primarily acid-set, often with a small amount of rennet.

They can range from very fresh and delicate to dry and intensely flavoured as they age.

Examples: Crottin, Valençay, Selles-sur-Cher

Pair with: crisp white wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc.

Bloomy Rind Cheeses

Soft cheeses covered by a white mould rind that ripens the cheese from the outside towards the centre.

Examples: Brie, Camembert, Chaource

Pair with: Beaujolais, Touraine, Champagne, or light Pinot Noir.

Washed Rind Cheeses

During maturation, the rind is regularly washed with brine or another solution.

This encourages characteristic surface bacteria and produces orange or reddish rinds with pronounced aromas.

Examples: Époisses, Munster, Langres

Pair with: light reds with low tannin, aromatic whites, or beer.

Uncooked Pressed Cheeses

The curds are pressed but not cooked to the high temperatures used in cooked pressed cheeses.

They range from supple and mild to firm and savoury.

Examples: Tomme, Reblochon, young Cantal

Pair with: Cabernet Franc or other medium-bodied, low-tannin reds.

Cooked Pressed Cheeses

The curds are heated during production before pressing.

These cheeses are usually firm and particularly suitable for long ageing.

Examples: Comté, Beaufort, Gruyère

Pair with: Chardonnay, Jura whites, Savagnin, or Vin Jaune.

Blue-Veined Cheeses

Blue mould develops inside the cheese, creating characteristic veins and strong savoury flavours.

Examples: Roquefort, Fourme d’Ambert, Stilton

Pair with: sweet wines, fortified wines, or Banyuls.

Stretched-Curd Cheeses – Pasta Filata

The curd is heated and stretched, giving these cheeses their characteristic elasticity.

Examples: Mozzarella, Burrata, Scamorza, Provolone

Pair with: fresh whites, sparkling wines, or light reds.

RIPENING: THE ART OF TIME

Ripening is controlled by three major elements:

temperature, humidity, and microbial activity.

Each style evolves differently.

The cheesemaker or affineur observes the cheese throughout maturation and adjusts conditions to guide its development.

Soft Cheese Example – Camembert Style

Weeks 1–2

Firm centre, youthful milk flavours, rind beginning to develop.

Around Week 4

Creamier texture, more aromatic, balanced expression.

Week 6 and Beyond

Softer texture and more pronounced flavours, depending on storage and production.

Hard Cheese Example – Comté Style

Around 4 Months

Young, milky, gentle sweetness.

12–18 Months

Fruity and balanced, often with notes of butter, nuts, and increasing complexity.

Around 24 Months

More concentrated, nutty, savoury, with a longer finish and increasing crystallisation.

30 Months and Beyond

Selected wheels can develop intense concentration, pronounced crystals, spice, roasted notes, and considerable complexity.

Age alone does not automatically make a cheese better. The quality of the milk, production, wheel selection, and maturation are equally important.

FAT CONTENT, MOISTURE & SEASONALITY

The fat percentage of a cheese can sometimes be misleading because cheeses contain very different amounts of water.

Soft cheeses retain more moisture.

Hard, aged cheeses contain less water, so fat and protein become more concentrated per gram.

Milk composition also changes throughout the year according to:

• pasture
• rainfall
• stage of lactation
• animal breed
• climate
• winter feed

This is why traditional cheese is not always completely identical throughout the year.

Seasonality is part of its character.

General Seasonal Examples

Spring / Summer
Fresh cheeses, goat cheeses, young lactic styles, some bloomy rinds.

Autumn / Winter
Richer milk styles, blue cheeses, and mature hard cheeses can become particularly appealing.

Seasonal Production
Some cheeses are produced only at certain times of year.

Mont d’Or is one of the best-known examples, with production traditionally linked to the colder months.

CHEESE IS ALIVE

Cheese continues to evolve after it has been made.

Moisture moves.

Proteins and fats break down.

Rinds develop.

Microorganisms continue to work.

Flavours become more complex.

This is why the same cheese can taste very different depending on:

• the season
• the milk
• its age
• the producer
• the cellar
• when it is eaten

AtK-SEIN Fromagerie, we invite you to taste, learn, and discover what milk and time can create.

Tradition, flavour and terroir—one cheese at a time.