Cheese is the result of a simple transformation: milk, time, and care. Behind every cheese lies an animal, a landscape, a technique, and a rhythm shaped by the seasons. This guide explores how milk becomes cheese—and why each cheese expresses its own character.
THE ESSENTIAL: MILK
Milk is the foundation of all cheese. Whether it comes from cows, goats, sheep, or buffalo, milk is a living raw material composed of water, fat, proteins, minerals, and vitamins. Each species—and each breed—produces milk with distinct properties that directly influence texture, flavour, and ageing potential.
Did you know?
Milk contains around 87% water. It takes approximately 10 litres of milk to produce 1 kilogram of cheese. During cheesemaking, most of this water is removed, leaving behind the solids—mainly fat and protein—that form the cheese.
As cheese matures, moisture continues to evaporate. This natural weight loss concentrates flavours but reduces yield, which is why long-aged cheeses are both more intense and more valuable.
Why Is Milk White?
Milk appears white because fat globules and proteins scatter light. The higher the fat content, the whiter the milk looks. Skim milk, with less fat and proportionally more casein, may appear slightly bluish.
FROM FARM TO MILK
Great cheese begins with great milk. On small-scale farms, animals are carefully fed, monitored, and respected. Their diet evolves with the seasons—fresh pasture in spring and summer, hay in winter—directly influencing the milk’s aroma, fat content, and protein balance.
Strict hygiene during milking is essential. Once collected, milk is rapidly chilled, tested, and transported to preserve its freshness before transformation.
MILK SOURCES & BREEDS
Cheese can be made from different animal milks, each bringing its own structure, richness, and flavour profile.
Cow’s Milk Breeds
Holstein, Montbéliarde, Abondance, Tarentaise, Simmental, Brown Swiss, Normande, Jersey, Ayrshire, Fleckvieh, Vosgienne.
Goat Breeds
Saanen, Alpine, Toggenburg, Poitevine, Murciano-Granadina, Anglo-Nubian, Rove, Verzasca.
Sheep Breeds
Lacaune, Manech tête rousse, Manech tête noire, Basco-Béarnaise, Sarda, Awassi, Churra, Manchega.
Other Milk Sources
-
Buffalo – very rich milk, high in fat and protein, ideal for stretched-curd cheeses
-
Mixed milks – combining different milks to create balance and complexity
TYPES OF MILK HEAT TREATMENT
Milk may undergo different treatments before cheesemaking. Each method affects safety, microbial life, and flavour development.
Raw Milk
-
Temperature: never above 40 °C
-
Time: no heat treatment
Raw milk retains its natural microbial flora, allowing cheeses to express their terroir and develop complex, evolving aromas. These cheeses require excellent milk quality and strict hygiene.
Thermised Milk
-
Temperature: 57–68 °C
-
Time: typically 15–60 seconds
Thermisation is a very gentle heat treatment designed to reduce undesirable bacteria while preserving much of the milk’s native flora and enzymes.
-
- The lower the temperature, the longer the milk must be held; conversely, higher thermisation temperatures require only very short exposure times. In practice, thermisation is carried out in continuous flow, meaning the milk remains at the target temperature only briefly.
Unlike pasteurisation, thermisation:
-
does not sterilise the milk
-
maintains traditional character
-
improves consistency during seasonal variation
It represents a middle ground between raw and pasteurised milk.
Microfiltered / Ultrafiltered Milk
-
Temperature: little or no heat (generally below 40 °C)
-
Process: mechanical filtration
Bacteria are physically removed using fine membranes rather than destroyed by heat. Selected cultures may then be reintroduced before cheesemaking.
Pasteurised Milk
-
Temperature: 72 °C
-
Time: 15–20 seconds
Pasteurisation ensures safety and uniformity by eliminating harmful bacteria. It reduces microbial diversity, resulting in milder and more consistent flavours.
Sterilised Milk (UHT)
-
Temperature: 135–150 °C
-
Time: 2–5 seconds
This treatment creates shelf-stable milk but significantly alters proteins and flavour, making it unsuitable for most traditional cheeses.
EUROPEAN GEOGRAPHICAL PROTECTIONS
Many European cheeses are protected by official geographical designations that safeguard origin, production methods, and cultural heritage.
These include:
-
AOP – Appellation d’Origine Protégée (EU)
-
AOC – Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (France and Switzerland)
-
DOP – Denominazione di Origine Protetta (Italy, Spain)
-
DOC / DOCG – Italy (mainly wine, sometimes linked to dairy traditions)
-
IGP / PGI – Indication Géographique Protégée (broader origin rules)
United Kingdom (NOT IN USE SINCE BREXIT)
Since Brexit, the UK operates its own but equivalent protection schemes:
-
PDO – Protected Designation of Origin
-
PGI – Protected Geographical Indication
-
TSG – Traditional Speciality Guaranteed
Protected cheeses must:
-
originate from a defined geographical area
-
follow strict production specifications
-
reflect local terroir and know-how
These labels protect both producers and consumers.
FROM MILK TO CHEESE
Raw Milk Cheeses
Made daily from fresh milk never heated above 40 °C, raw milk cheeses evolve with the seasons. Their flavours reflect pasture, climate, and local microbial life.
The Cheesemaking Process
-
Milking – Collected twice daily and refrigerated immediately
-
Collection – Milk is tested and transported
-
Curdling – Rennet and lactic cultures coagulate the milk
-
Cutting & Moulding – The curd is shaped
-
Draining – Whey is removed
-
Salting – Flavouring and preservation
-
Ripening – Texture and aroma develop
WHY DOES CHEESE COST MORE?
Hand-produced cheeses are made in small quantities by skilled producers. Many steps are done by hand, with constant attention to milk quality, temperature, and timing.
Ageing adds another dimension. While resting in the cellar, cheese takes up space, requires regular care (turning, brushing, washing), and continues to lose weight. In a sense, the cheese is paying rent to stay in the cave.
Buying cheese means tasting time, patience, and expertise.
FAMILIES OF CHEESE & WINE PAIRINGS
Fresh Cheeses
Unripened, high moisture, clean and milky.
Examples: fromage blanc, ricotta, fresh curd
Pair with: light aromatic whites.
Lactic Cheeses
Primarily acid-set, with little or no rennet. Delicate, tangy, sometimes lightly aged.
Examples: Crottin, Valençay, Selles-sur-Cher
Pair with: crisp whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc.
Bloomy Rind Cheeses
Soft cheeses with a white mould rind and creamy interior.
Examples: Brie, Camembert, Chaource
Pair with: Beaujolais, Touraine, light Pinot Noir.
Washed Rind Cheeses
Washed during ageing, developing orange rinds and pronounced aromas.
Examples: Époisses, Munster, Langres
Pair with: ligth red wine, with low tannin, beer
Uncooked Pressed Cheeses
Supple, flavourful cheeses with moderate ageing.
Examples: Tomme, Reblochon, young Cantal
Pair with: Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley red wine style)
Cooked Pressed Cheeses
Firm, long-aged cheeses with nutty complexity.
Examples: Comté, Beaufort, Gruyère
Pair with: Chardonnay or Jura vin jaune.
Blue-Veined Cheeses
Naturally veined with moulds, bold and salty.
Examples: Roquefort, Fourme d’Ambert, Stilton
Pair with: dessert wines or Banyuls.
Stretched-Curd Cheeses (Pasta Filata)
Curd is heated and stretched, creating elasticity and excellent melting properties.
Examples: Mozzarella, Burrata, Scamorza, Provolone
Pair with: fresh whites, sparkling wines, or light reds.
RIPENING: THE ART OF TIME
Ripening is governed by temperature, humidity, and microbial activity. Each cheese family evolves differently and is often guided by an affineur to reach its ideal moment.
Soft Cheese Example – Camembert Style
-
Weeks 1–2: Firm centre, flavours just developing
-
Around week 4: Creamy texture, full expression
-
Week 6 and beyond: Softer, more pronounced character
Hard Cheese Example – Comté Style
-
4 months: Young, milky, subtle sweetness
-
12–18 months: Fruity, balanced, notes of butter and hazelnut, light crystallisation
-
24 months: Deeper nuttiness, long finish, good crystallisation
-
30+ months (selection): Intense concentration, pronounced crystals, great complexity
FAT CONTENT & SEASONALITY
Soft cheeses contain more water and therefore less fat per gram than hard cheeses. Milk composition changes with the seasons depending on animal diet—and cheese reflects this naturally.
-
Spring / Summer: Fresh and lactic cheeses, bloomy rinds
-
Autumn / Winter: Blues, long-aged hard cheeses
-
Winter only: Mont d’Or
At K-SEIN Fromagerie, we invite you to taste, learn, and savour what milk and time can create.
Tradition, flavour, and terroir—one cheese at a time.
